Thursday, February 21, 2008

Where to Brunch: Cafe Marvin


I went to Cafe Marvin this Sunday for their very first brunch. I didn't have high expectations and went mainly because the General Manager, Sheldon Scott (pictured) asked me to come. I'm damn glad I did. It's rare I go to a restaurant and think lustfully about the food the next day, and at this point I can't imagine my ass not being there next Sunday to get more of it. I hate writing reviews, but I enjoyed my experience at Marvin so much that I'm making an exception.

Marvin was concieved as a Marvin Gaye themed restaurant, and his image appears fabulously and in grand proportion on the dining room wall. One of its owners is a part of the famed DJ group Thievery Corporation, and it is managed by a seriously talented actor and playwright, the previously mentioned Sheldon Scott, who is accessible to the floor and keeps the mood of the restaurant popping yet easy--just the sort of place one might envision Marvin Gaye hanging out.

The restaurant itself is a charmer. Black walls, ornately detailed high ceilings, and edison lightbulbs evoke the traditional French Bistro. The seating is comfortable, the servers are friendly even though they're working brunch (I worked with several of them in a past life), the downstairs bartender (Dave Onate) is one of the best in town, and the food, while not quite as cheap as Busboys&Poets, is exceptional and well worth the cost.

The menu focuses on what I will call high-quality neo-soul food. I had the bacon egg waffle ($12), a sandwich of applewood smoked bacon over eggs sandwiched between waffle slices, of which I coated with syrup. This was served with a well presented bowl of fresh fruit. My brunch companion had the cream chipped beef over house made biscuits ($12), served with mixed greens. Both were a declaration of love for our taste buds and were gone far too quickly. We shared a bowl of sweet grits ($5; I don't even like grits, but I loved these), and washed the meal down with a couple of the fine beers Marvin keeps on tap, of which I recommend the Abita Turbodog and the dark but airy belgian tap whose name I can't recall (the one with the black handle).

Unfortunately, the chicken and waffles ($16) must wait until my next visit, as the kitchen had run out of chicken. Also to be tried on my next visit is the Bloody Mary. I'm no fan of this staple, but Dave the bartender gave me a sample of their Bloody Mary mix and I found it tasty and complex.

I don't know how they fare on Vegeterian options, as I am a carnivoire and don't entertain such considerations. For this oversight, I apologize.

Dave mentioned to me that the restaurant was dead most of the day until about the time we arrived (2pm), but once people find out about what's cooking at Marvin, I can't imagine that I'll be lucky enough to get a table without a wait.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Oh, the imagery this sentence conjures LOL:

It's rare I go to a restaurant and think lustfully about the food the next day and at this point I can't imagine my ass . . .

Like waaaaarm apple pie . . .

Cheers, -Z

Anonymous said...

I went to Marvin for dinner and had a gaye olde time. The pâté was unusually corn-fed, but still good. The caramelized scallops entrée impressed me, especially the risotto-laden sauce. In fact, the sauce could be poured onto any white fish or chicken and still be excellent. (Rarely do I rave about sauces.)

The bottle of Gewürztraminer was a little too sweet and the price a little too dear, but my dinner guests enjoyed it.

I'd happily return there. Who wants to take me on a date?